Mushroooms Fill In the Blanks for the Meat-Free
source: http://www.nytimes.com/2011/02/02/dining/02vege.html?hpw
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Andrew Scrivani for The New York Times
Photo: Vegan braised Chinese mushrooms and baby bok choy.
By ELAINE LOUIE
Published: January 28, 2011
WHEN he was a boy and his father hunted game in the woods of Alsace, Jean-Georges Vongerichten would tag along and forage for mushrooms.
“The morels smell like fresh moss in the spring,” said Mr. Vongerichten, an owner of 28 restaurants in New York and around the world. “The chanterelles, for me, are like the field, like fresh grass, and slightly sweet. The shiitake, I would say, the bark of the woods. That’s where they grow.”
“Mushrooms have memories for me,” he said.
For vegans, mushrooms provide something much more substantial, a meaty succulence and satisfying texture that can be missing from a meat-free diet. They have a remarkable variety of forms and tastes, and take on deeper, richer flavors when sautéed, steamed, roasted or grilled.
At Spice Market, his restaurant in downtown Manhattan, Mr. Vongerichten fills spring rolls with oyster mushrooms and shiitakes, and spices them with ginger, lemon zest, garlic and green chilis. They recall a trip he took to Singapore several years ago.
“I was inspired by a food hawker,” he said. “It was a woman who ran a food stand that sold only vegan spring rolls. The mushroom roll really stood out. It was so flavorful and creamy. I tried to talk to her to find out what was in it, but she didn’t speak English. So after tasting it, I did my best to figure out the ingredients.”
Mr. Vongerichten uses inexpensive mushrooms as well as costly ones. At Jean Georges, he boils up a broth of sliced white mushrooms, vegan spread, salt, agave, lime juice, soy sauce, vinegar and water, then strains the elixir.
“For me, soy sauce is the best seasoning for mushrooms,” he said. “It brings the flavor out of the mushrooms.”
A classic Chinese dish is bok choy served with dried black mushrooms, soaked until soft and then flavored with soy sauce and other ingredients.
A garlicky hot vinaigrette adds power to the Spanish mushroom appetizer that Josh Blakely serves at Macao Trading Company in TriBeCa.
“What draws me to mushrooms is the incredible texture,” he said, “and my favorite thing to do with oysters mushrooms, chanterelles and hen o’ the woods is to roast them in a pan, and not touch them very much, and let the flavor develop.”
Fall is the best season for mushrooms, but many are now available, fresh and dried, farmed and foraged.
At the Union Square Greenmarket, Paul Dench-Layton and Mary Carpenter, from Violet Hill Farm in Livingston Manor, N.Y., sell mushrooms they forage and dry on their 95-acre property — $5 for a little less than an ounce.
“We have porcini, golden chanterelles, hedge hogs and a whole bunch of different types, maybe 10 in all,” Ms. Carpenter said.
Also in the market, Michael Bulich, of Bulich Mushroom Company in Catskill, N.Y., sells farmed fresh mushrooms, including buttons ($4 a pound), portobellos ($6 a pound), oysters ($9 a pound) and shiitakes ($12 a pound).
At Eataly, Fifth Avenue and 23rd Street, there are 16 fresh varieties, from silver dollars ($6.80 a pound) to bluefoots ($49.30 a pound).
Related Recipes
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Roasted Mushrooms With Garlic (February 2, 2011)
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Mushroom Spring Rolls in Lettuce Cups (February 2, 2011)
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Vegan Braised Chinese Mushrooms and Baby Bok Choy (February 2, 2011)
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Mushrooms and Chives With Tofu Croutons (February 2, 2011)
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EthicalVegan
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http://www.nytimes.com/2011/02/02/dining/02vegerex4.html?ref=dining
# The New York Times
January 28, 2011Mushrooms and Chives With Tofu Croutons
Adapted from Yvonne Wong, and Tien Ho, Má Pêche, Manhattan
Time: 1 hour
FOR THE TOFU CROUTONS
1/2 pound firm tofu
2 tablespoons cornstarch
3 cups vegetable oil
Salt
FOR THE MUSHROOMS AND CHIVES TOPPING
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 tablespoons julienned fresh ginger
2 cups yellow or green chives (or both), trimmed, cut crosswise into 2-inch pieces
1 cup prince mushrooms (sold in Asian stores) trimmed, sliced diagonally 1/4 -inch thick, and then sliced into 1/4-inch wide strips
1 cup oyster mushrooms, trimmed and halved or quartered lengthwise
1 cup baby portobello or baby shiitake, stemmed and halved or quartered
1 1/2 cups vegetable broth
2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 teaspoons vegan oyster sauce (or suitable substitute)
1 1/2 teaspoons cornstarch
Salt and white pepper, to taste
2 teaspoons sesame oil
1 teaspoon vinegar.
1. For the tofu croutons: Pat tofu very dry on paper towels. Cut half of the one-pound cake of tofu into 1/2-inch cubes, and carefully coat in cornstarch. Reserve the other half-pound of tofu for another use. Pour the oil into a wok or small deep-fryer and heat to 350 degrees. Working in batches, if needed, deep-fry the tofu for 5 to 6 minutes, until golden and crispy. Using a slotted spoon, remove the tofu and place on paper towels. Season with salt, reserve and set aside. Discard the oil.
2. For the mushrooms and chives topping: In a large skillet or wok, heat 3 tablespoons of oil over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add 1 tablespoon of the ginger and stir rapidly for 30 seconds. Add chives, and stir for 30 seconds. Add mushrooms and stir-fry until softened, about 8 minutes. Transfer to a platter, and set aside. Clean the skillet or wok, and wipe dry.
3. In a small bowl, mix vegetable broth, soy sauce and vegan oyster sauce; set aside. In another small bowl, mix the cornstarch with 2 tablespoons cold water; set aside.
4. In the large skillet or wok, add stock mixture and bring to a boil. Add cornstarch mixture and stir for 20 seconds. Add the mushrooms and chives mixture and heat through. Season with salt and white pepper to taste.
5. Pour the mushrooms and chives mixture into the center of a platter. Arrange the tofu croutons around the edges. Garnish with the remaining tablespoon of julienned ginger. Drizzle with sesame oil, sprinkle with vinegar.
Yield: 2 servings.
- 1 year ago
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EthicalVegan
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EthicalVegan
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# The New York Times
January 28, 2011
Vegan Braised Chinese Mushrooms and Baby Bok Choy
Time: 45 minutes
1 teaspoon vegan oyster sauce or stir-fry sauce, like Lee Kum Kee brand (sold at Asian markets or on Amazon.com) 1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 1/2 teaspoons sugar
1 teaspoon sesame oil
1/2 cup vegetable broth or water
1 teaspoon rice wine or dry sherry
14 Chinese dried mushrooms, soaked in warm water until softened, stemmed, and squeezed dry, or fresh shiitake mushrooms, stemmed
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 teaspoon cornstarch
14 baby bok choy
2 scallions, white part only, minced.
1. In a small bowl, combine oyster or stir-fry sauce, soy sauce, sugar, sesame oil, vegetable broth and rice wine or sherry. Mix well, and reserve.
2. Fill a large pot about three-quarters full of water, and place over high heat to bring to a boil. Meanwhile, in a skillet large enough to hold all the mushrooms in one snug layer, heat the vegetable oil over medium heat until shimmering. Add mushrooms, and stir-fry for 2 minutes. Add reserved sauce, and reduce heat to low. Cover, and simmer for 20 minutes, turning mushrooms over once or twice. If the pan becomes dry, add 1 to 2 tablespoons water.
3. In a small bowl, combine cornstarch with 2 teaspoons water, and mix well. Add to the mushrooms. Stir gently for 30 seconds, until mushrooms are glossy. Cover, and turn off heat. Add the baby bok choy to the boiling water, and blanch until crisp-tender, about 1 1/2 minutes. Drain well and arrange on a platter with the leaves pointed toward the center. Place the mushrooms in the center, and garnish with chopped scallions. If desired, serve with rice.
Yield: 2 servings.
- 1 year ago
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EthicalVegan
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EthicalVegan
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http://www.nytimes.com/2011/02/02/dining/02vegerex2.html?ref=dining
# The New York Times
January 28, 2011
Mushroom Spring Rolls in Lettuce CupsAdapted From Jean-Georges Vongerichten, Spice Market, Manhattan
Time: 1 hour
FOR THE DIPPING SAUCE
1/2 cup sambal oelek chili sauce (sold at Asian groceries)
1/2 cup agave
1/3 cup fresh lemon juice
1/4 cup rice wine vinegar
2 teaspoons salt.
FOR THE SPRING ROLLS
8 tablespoons vegan spread, cut into 1-inch cubes
1/2 tablespoon minced garlic
1 pound oyster or other mushrooms, stemmed, sliced 1/2-inch thick
3/4 pound shiitake mushrooms, stemmed, sliced 1/2-inch thick
1/4 teaspoon minced green Thai chili
Salt
1 1/2 tablespoons finely grated lemon zest (preferably use a Microplane)
1 tablespoon finely grated peeled ginger (preferably use a Microplane)
1 tablespoon chopped fresh chervil, or 1 teaspoon chopped fresh tarragon
Equivalent of 1 egg (using egg substitute)
8 spring roll wrappers
3 cups vegetable oil, or as needed
Ground white pepper, optional
8 leaves Boston lettuce.
1. To make the dipping sauce: In a small bowl, combine sambal oelek, agave, lemon juice, rice wine vinegar and salt. Mix well. Cover and refrigerate up to a week.
2. To make the spring rolls: Combine vegan spread and garlic in a sauté pan over medium high heat, and stir until spread is foamy and garlic is fragrant but not browned. Add oyster mushrooms, shiitake mushrooms, chili and salt to taste. Cover and cook over medium heat until mushrooms have released their juices and are soft and glazed, about 6 minutes. Add lemon zest, ginger and chervil or tarragon, and sauté 1 minute. Remove from heat and spread across a small plate. Place in the freezer, uncovered, mixing occasionally until very cold, about 15 minutes.
3. Place a spring roll wrapper in front of you, like a diamond, so a point faces you. Lightly brush the four corners of the wrapper with beaten egg substitute. Place 2 tablespoons of the mushroom mixture into the bottom quarter of the wrapper. Starting from the bottom corner, roll the wrapper, folding in the side corners so they get wrapped up, and keep rolling until closed. Repeat to make 8 rolls.
4. In a deep fryer, wok or skillet, heat oil to 350 degrees. Add spring rolls, working in batches if necessary, and fry until golden brown, about 5 minutes. Remove with slotted spoon. Drain on paper towels. If desired, season lightly with salt and white pepper. Divide dipping sauce among four very small bowls, and place a bowl on each of four plates. Place two lettuce leaves on each plate, place a spring roll on each leaf. Wrap spring rolls in the lettuce and dip.
Yield: 4 appetizer servings.
- 1 year ago
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EthicalVegan
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EthicalVegan
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http://www.nytimes.com/2011/02/02/dining/02vegerex1.html?ref=dining
Recipe
Roasted Mushrooms With GarlicPublished: January 28, 2011
Adapted From Josh Blakely, Macao Trading Company, Manhattan
Ruth Fremson/The New York Times
Roasted mushrooms with garlic.
Time: 45 minutes
4 cups mushrooms (best to get a mix of varieties), cut into 1-inch pieces
2/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
12 garlic cloves — 8 whole and 4 finely grated on a Microplane or cheese grater
5 sprigs of thyme
Salt and black pepper
1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
2 tablespoons sherry vinegar, or cider vinegar
1 plum tomato, seeded and diced
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
1 teaspoon pimenton (smoked Spanish paprika)
2 tablespoons chopped roasted, salted cashews, or Marcona almonds, or peanuts
Grilled bread, for serving (optional).
1. Heat oven to 400 degrees. In a shallow roasting pan, mix together mushrooms, 1/3 cup of the olive oil, whole garlic cloves and thyme. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Roast, stirring occasionally, until mushrooms are golden brown and just starting to crisp, about 30 minutes. Remove from the oven, and discard thyme and garlic. Arrange the mushrooms in a shallow bowl, 6 to 8 inches in diameter.
2. In a small sauté pan, heat the remaining 1/3 cup olive oil until shimmering. Add grated garlic and red pepper flakes. Sauté until golden brown, and immediately add vinegar, tomato, 1 tablespoon of the parsley, and a pinch of salt. Remove from heat and immediately pour over the mushrooms.
3. Garnish with the remaining 1 tablespoon chopped parsley, pimenton, and chopped cashews. Serve immediately, while bubbly and hot. If desired, serve with grilled crusty bread.
Yield: 2 appetizer servings or 2 side servings.
- 1 year ago
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EthicalVegan
