A guided tour of ‘outer’ India

Have you ever heard of places like Somtal, Chapkikarong, and Soraphung? To many, they might not even sound Indian. But they are areas in the Indian State of Manipur.

The Indian Army and paramilitary forces took over three months (November 07 to February 2008) to partially recapture the sensitive Somtal area on the Indo-Myanmar border from hordes of Meitei (Manipuri Hindus) rebel groups.

Chapkikarong, a beautiful valley near the Burma border, is still infested by the Meitei and assorted Kuki rebel groups.

Soraphung, on the Manipur-Nagaland border, and close to Myanmar, is a stronghold of the National Socialist Council of Nagaland (Isak-Muivah) or NSCN (I-M).

The Naga imbroglio is a long story. But Manipur, where I conduct your tour now, is a far more complicated and longer story.

The kingdom of Manipur was merged with India in 1949. Since then, the Jewel of the East has rarely witnessed peace.

Several complicated factors contributed to the rise and consolidation of separatist outfits in Manipur since early sixties. The valley (700 sq miles) was mostly inhabited by Meitei Vaishnavite Hindus. The hills were traditional homes of assorted Naga tribes (about 15) and tribes of Kuki-Chin-Lushai origin (about 20). It is a vast, kaleidoscopic confluence of humans and bountiful nature.

I cannot guide you to Loktak, the Dal Lake of the East. The vastness, depth and rippling beauty of the water body has shrunk, and very few Siberian and Chinese birds migrate to the area during winter.

I cannot take you to Bishenpur (Vishnupur) to see the neglected 7th century Vishnu image created by the craftsmen of the Hindu Abha kingdom of Myanmar. Some stray terrorist bullets might hit you and me.

If I can manage a police escort, it may be possible to guide you to Moirang Lakeview, where Netaji Subhash Bose had set up Azad Hind Government’s headquarters on Indian soil. The memorial lies in neglect.

A drive up to the border smuggling towns of Tengnoupal and Tamu is fraught with danger. There are distinct possibilities of Naga, Kuki or Meitei underground gangs kidnapping us for a hefty ransom.

Would you like to travel to Tussom Khullen, Chassad and Toipoi? Rather risky. These tracts in Ukhrul’s Tangkhul Naga areas are administered by the NSCN (I-M) instead of the government of Manipur. You might have to pay local taxes to the Naga rebels for a bumpy journey to the remote villages on Myanmar borders.

However, the breathtaking beauty of the Ukhrul Naga Hills might tempt you to drop into a village, chat with the khullakpa (headman), witness wonderful dances and listen to Church carols. I wish I could guide you through the beautiful terrains in Ukhrul as well as Tamenglong and Thanlon-Parbung Hills.

However, I wouldn’t recommend setting up a business, take a government job or set up a professional practice either in the valley or in the hills.

The terrorists demand hefty monthly dues and casual “taxes” from all earning members. Besides professionals and traders, even ministers of and senior government officials are subjected to moral policing and heavy taxation.

During a recent visit to the valley, an old friend whispered that Manipur — perhaps like most other States in India — has a unique system of wealth sharing. Out of rupees one hundred, the political bosses take a cut of 25 per cent, the bureaucrats about 10 per cent, terrorists over 20 per cent.

But even the remaining 50 per cent does not reach the Aam Aadmi. Out of plan and non-plan budget, the lowest creatures in the democratic system can expect only 15 per cent of the allocated amount. The rest disappear in the jungles inhabited by animals called contractors, babus, local political dadas and fringe militants.

Let us continue the tour with a visit to the colourful “Ima Keithel”, or shopping vends managed by women. The land of Chitrangada still practices steady participation by women in all spheres of life.